Going native
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| ABOVE LEFT:
Breakfast in the Executive Lounge |
| ABOVE RIGHT:
Ready to check out |
I woke up at 4am, no doubt due to the effects of
jet lag, and didn't manage to sleep properly again. A few hours
later, we decided to have breakfast in the Executive Lounge - an
option that was possible thanks to my status in the Hilton HHonors
loyalty programme. It was pleasant enough, but didn't rank among the
top tier of Asian lounges that we had been lucky enough to experience
over recent years. As the coffee in particular was nothing to write
home about, we decided to pop over to the station in search of a
Starbucks branch but, improbable as it sounds, we couldn't manage to
find one. We did however have nice, espresso-based coffees in a tiny
café where, somewhat incongruously in the 21st century, absolutely everybody was smoking.
How very retro!
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ABOVE: Setting off for
Kagaonsen |
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ABOVE: Journey's end:
Thunderbirds are go! |
It was soon time to check out of the Hilton and,
in a sense, begin our real explorations of some of the lesser-known
sights of this country. First order of business was to catch the
Thunderbird Express to Kagaonsen. Everything seemed to be very well
organised, with platform signs telling us exactly where to stand for
the Green Car. The "2+1" seats looked fairly old, but comfortable,
and they could be adjusted to face either way. Although Green Car
travel involved a hefty premium over standard fares, we both decided
there and then that it was definitely the way to go.
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ABOVE: Lunch in
Yamashiro |
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| Ah yes, very droll! |
On arrival at Kagaonsen station - 'onsen', I learned, means 'hot
springs' - we took a local taxi to our next hotel, Beniya Mukayu,
situated in the nearby Yamashiro area of Kaga. This would be our
much anticipated stay at a Ryokan, or traditional Japanese
inn. Not surprisingly, it was too early to check in, so we left our
luggage and took the hotel's funky elevator (of the type that runs
up and down a steep slope) into Yamashiro. We quickly found a local
restaurant, which turned out to be next door to the one recommended by
the hotel staff - but this proved to be unimportant as the food was
really good. I had Donburi - the word means 'rice bowl' and
can refer to either the bowl itself or its contents, in this
instance rice, salmon and vegetables, which could be moistened with
a tasty broth. It all looked pretty as a picture, so naturally I
took one!
Our hunger satisfied, we took a leisurely stroll
around the area in the warm sunshine, but in truth there wasn't a
huge amount to see and we soon found ourselves riding the elevator
back to our new base.
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BELOW:
A few images of Yamashiro on a warm and sunny
afternoon |
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This time they were ready for us and we received a
welcome drink followed by a tour of the property, which ended at our
fabulous Zen Executive Suite. It was all hugely impressive!
| Beniya Mukayu:
Ryokan Impressions |
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We both changed into the Yukata kimonos
provided in our room, this being a casual summer garment that comes
in men's and women's versions. We had been assured that this was an
acceptable form of dress anywhere in the hotel, including the dining
room, and that it could even be worn for short trips in the
immediate area.
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Beniya Mukayu:
Tea Ceremony |
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LEFT:
The owner of Beniya Mukayu performed a traditional Japanese
tea ceremony for us as a gesture of hospitality. |
As part of our introduction. we had been told that
the owner of Beniya Mukayu had invited us to a traditional tea
ceremony at 5pm. We made our way to the appropriate outbuilding at
the appointed hour, entered a small, dimly lit room and took a seat
on the floor. After a couple of minutes, a panel opened in the side
wall and Mr Nakamichi came in and took up his position in front of
the small urn and other equipment. Each action he took was executed
with such care and precision that, for a few minutes, we both felt
it would be disrespectful to speak. Eventually Bruce asked if we
could take a couple of photos and thereafter things became much more
chatty, in a quiet and dignified Japanese way. I was conscious that
this was one of those authentic travel experiences that I would
never forget and felt grateful - honoured, even - that the property
owner had been willing to set time aside for this purpose.
We made our way to the dining room at 7pm,
slightly anxious about our attire, and were relieved to see that all
the other guests, with the exception of just two, were also wearing
the Yukata. Rather than order à la carte, we
decided to go with the amazing-looking eleven-course set menu, the
cost of which was already included in our room rate. The menu is
reproduced below and every single component of that meal both looked
amazing and tasted absolutely delicious. Once again, it was an
experience that will hopefully never be forgotten. We both regretted
not having pictures, but we hadn't been sure of etiquette and didn't
want to cause offence.
| Beniya Mukayu:
Gourmet Dinner |
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ABOVE:
Eleven-course tasting menu
(to be read right to left!) |
After such a glorious feast, we took turns at
soaking in the private outdoor hot tub attached to our room. Apart
from any benefit derived from the spa water, it was a perfectly
relaxing way to prepare for a restful night's sleep.
