Round The World and other travels
A frequent flyer's collection of trip diaries
This is: Round The World 2015
'Wat' an amazing day!
The combined temples of Angkor make up the largest religious monument in the world, and as such, a single day is not enough to take it all in. We were determined to give it our best shot, though, concentrating on the three most significant sites. Bruce had booked a private tour with Angkor Wat Services, which was to include an English-speaking guide, air-conditioned vehicle with driver, and entrance fees.
We set ourselves up nicely for what could potentially be a tiring day with a superb breakfast at Raffles. There was even champagne available, though we decided that on this occasion, it wouldn't necessarily be the best preparation for a day of intensive sightseeing under the relentless heat of the sun. As arranged, we were picked up at 9am by our driver/guide Nu, who explained that we would be starting with Angkor Thom, moving on to Ta Prohm and then seeing Angkor Wat in the afternoon, following our lunch stop. Nu was clearly both an expert on his subject and a tireless enthusiast for the area's heritage. It was clear from outset that he knew the best times of day for each complex, and the exact locations for all the best photographs.
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom, meaning 'Great City' in Khmer, was founded in the late 12th century, and upon completion became the largest city in the Khmer Empire. Of particular note were the South Gate with its huge stone face, the Phimeanakas pyramid, the Terrace of the Elephants, and the Bayon Temple at the centre of the city.
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Ta Prohm
Ta Prohm, perhaps the most evocative and mysterious of the temple structures, means 'Ancestor of Brahma' in Khmer. It was built in the late 12th century. The French began the original archaeological restoration, and made a point of leaving in place the giant roots of the banyan trees that smother much of the site. This made for a unique atmosphere during our visit, perhaps akin to what the 19th-century explorers would have felt. Notable highlights included the Waterfall Tree, the Crocodile Tree and the Tomb Raider Tree, the last named for its appearance in the 2001 movie Lara Croft: Tomb Raider.
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We made our scheduled lunch stop, but the food was poor and the staff seemed disinterested. Being generally observant can sometimes be a curse: one memorably sad sight for me was that of a staff member scraping leftovers from a customer's plate into a plastic bag, and then slipping this into her own bag when she thought no-one was looking.
Angkor Wat
After lunch, we visited Angkor Wat, the largest and best known of the temples. Built in the early 12th century, this spectacular complex was originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. The five towers are shaped like lotus buds, and represent Mount Meru, the mythical abode of the gods and centre of the universe. Unusually among Khmer temples, Angkor Wat faces the setting sun, a symbol of death.
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As we drove back to Raffles, a few thoughts about the day as a whole stood out in my mind. First, there was the fact that exploring the sites properly had involved some rather daunting climbs - I was glad that I had done it while I was still reasonably fit and able. Secondly, we had spent several hours in mostly unrelieved exposure to heat and humidity, which combined with the physical effort, had resulted in copious perspiration. And finally, I was struck by the sheer numbers of tourists visiting the area - surely there would have to be some form of limitation of numbers before much longer. We both agreed that our favourite site had actually been the first one, Angkor Thom.
Return to Raffles
We eventually made it back to Raffles, absolutely dripping with sweat. After shedding our tour clothes, freshening up and recovering our composure, we made for the pool and enjoyed some well deserved relaxation until sunset. The Elephant Bar was once again a delightfully civilised venue in which to begin our evening. We then walked to local restaurant Arun for dinner, only to realise that it had been a dreadful choice.
Culinary disappointments aside, however, this was
one of those simply unforgettable days!
