Round The World and other travels

A frequent flyer's collection of trip diaries

This is: Canada & Mexico 2011

Mayan discoveries

It was back to the usual practice of waking with the alarm this morning: we got up at 0640 to make sure that there was plenty of time to enjoy a leisurely room service breakfast before being picked up by the car at 0830. Our vehicle for the journey to Edzná turned out to be a big Chevy Suburban with tinted windows. The drive took 45 minutes, in the company of guide Luis and of course our driver. We noticed signs along the way for a local village that rejoiced in the name of China; Luis said that oriental tourists usually insisted on a photo stop.

On arrival at the site we set out on foot with Luis, making sure that hats and water bottles were not forgotten. The heat was already intense and it was fun to see iguanas and other lizards in abundance. We climbed up the ruins of one structure that didn't look much in itself, and Luis told us to get ready for what he liked to call 'The Wow Moment'. And quite suddenly, there it was in front of us: the stunning remains of the pyramid-shaped main temple.

 

We learned that Edzná dates from 600BC and that the name means "House of the Itza". (The archaeological site of Chichen Itza, some 300km away between Mérida and Cancún, is rather more famous but infinitely more crowded.) The Mayan community thrived in this place for centuries, with a well-ordered society based on agriculture and respect for the community's leaders. Surprisingly - I thought so, anyway - part of the site is a ball court. The community finally disintegrated and the city was abandoned around AD1500, following crop failures and disillusionment with the priests and leaders. Luis drew an interesting parallel with religion and politics in the modern world. We spent some 90 minutes on-site, but despite the intense heat of the sun and incessant pestering by the local insect life, it seemed to pass very quickly and we both agreed that it had been well worth the trip. Best of all, we saw only six other people during our time at the site!

Back at the Hacienda, we had a room service lunch, a short siesta (this practice seemed to be rapidly catching on!) and then spent late afternoon by the pool. After freshening up, we had cocktails on the hotel's lovely rooftop terrace, which had been opened up now that the hotel had gone from very quiet to full in the run-up to a US holiday weekend. Dinner, sadly, was a big disappointment after such an otherwise successful day. We turned up at La Pigua only to find the place near-deserted and to be told that it would close at 9:30pm. We decided to stay, but the staff seemed interested only in going home.   Not a good experience at all!

Not wishing to close the day on such a note, we returned to the Hacienda and treated ourselves to a very pleasant nightcap on the rooftop terrace.

Thursday 26 May

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