Despite having made more visits to Italy than I could remember, I was conscious that I had never been to the country's second-largest city, one of the great world capitals of style and fashion. A desire to try out Lufthansa Italia in its final days of operation, coupled with cheap fares designed to keep the service busy to the last, provided the perfect opportunity. Although I found the city less photogenic than the likes of Rome, Venice and Florence, this came as no real surprise and I still found plenty to keep me interested in the thirty hours or so that I was there.