Round The World and other travels
A frequent flyer's collection of trip diaries
This is: A Tale of Two Cities (2010)
Forbidden City and more
Thoroughly rested after my journey to China, I had something of a spring in my step as I got out of bed, a feeling that was further enhanced when I realised that the previous day's murky conditions had vanished overnight, to be replaced by cloudless blue skies and brilliant sunshine. I had an excellent breakfast in the Executive Lounge and wasted no time in getting organised, knowing full well that the way to miss the worst of the crowds in the Forbidden City was to get there early. Leaving the hotel around 9:30, I was already a bit behind on what I had intended, but I nevertheless felt confident that things were going well. I retraced the previous day's steps to Tiananmen Gate (a.k.a. the Gate of Heavenly Peace).
Forbidden City
I was mildly horrified to find the gate already engulfed in a sea of humanity and mightily relieved to find that the crowds eased a little as I approached the moat surrounding the Forbidden City complex - so called, incidentally, because as the former Imperial Palace, anything deemed representative of the ordinary (whether animate or inanimate) was barred from entry. Dating from 1420, the complex now serves as an imperial museum and contains some 10,000 rooms in total, thankfully not all of which are open to the public! The crowds continued to thin as I progressed through the various courtyards. The buildings looked stunning in the strong sunshine, but the biting wind ensured that I didn't hang around for too long in any one spot.
Jingshan Park & Coal Hill
Emerging from the Gate of the Divine Warrior, I simply crossed the road to reach the entrance to Jingshan Park, carefully avoiding the many people to were keen to take me up to the summit of Coal Hill using one method of propulsion or another. Although it was a relatively strenuous climb, I pressed ahead under my own steam, as indeed I recalled doing all those years ago in 1991. As on that previous occasion, the climb was rewarded by the views over the Forbidden City and indeed over other parts of central Beijing.
There were some interesting photographs on display near the western exit, showing state and/or military events in Tiananmen Square.
Hou Hai
Realising that it was lunchtime and that there seemed to be a dearth of eateries in the immediate vicinity that looked remotely suitable, I consulted my map and walked to the nearby Hou Hai district. The fact that it was marked on the map with a wine glass seemed at least vaguely promising. Once there, I quickly located a branch of Starbucks and had a light lunch. I was determined to change the pattern that had emerged in Madrid and enjoy some tasty Chinese dinners, so this was perfectly sufficient for now. I took the opportunity to have a quick look around the area, which was basically a collection of restaurants and bars around a lake. It all had that slightly sad, out-of-season look, so I didn't linger.
Beihai Park
Duly perked up by both food and coffee, I paid my entry fee and set off southwards through the large Beihai Park, built around another lake and home to the iconic White Dagoba. It's an interesting stroll, as the park is full of various structures in Chinese classical style. Entering at the north end and proceeding towards the south, you have to make a choice about which side of the lake you want to take. Before I realised it, I was on the opposite side to the famous white monument and, without substantial back-tracking, more or less committed, as there was no evidence of the sign-posted ferryboats actually operating. I have no idea whether it was a good or bad choice, but I was certainly satisfied with what I saw on the west bank.
Back to Wangfujing
I returned to Wangfujing by walking eastwards behind the Forbidden City, passing the point where I had emerged earlier and crossed the road to Jingshan Park. When I got closer to the Hilton, as on the previous day I found myself pausing to take note of the sometimes incongruous-looking extent of Western influences in this area.
Back at base, I relaxed for a bit,
reviewed my grand total for the day of no fewer than 341 photographs
and took the opportunity to freshen up before sampling Happy Hour in
the lounge, which turned out to be very nicely presented. Having no
particular desire to venture outside again, I decided to eat dinner
in the hotel's fifth-floor, flagship Chynna restaurant. This
proved to be a first-rate experience and, as I enjoyed the delicious
food, I reflected that whatever else this visit might bring, I had
already seen in one day what most people would probably spread over
two or more - and all of it on foot! I felt quietly satisfied,
almost to the point of smugness.